Sarlat to Bergerac, rest, to Arcachon
finishing one adventure, revving up for the next
26.09.2013 - 28.09.2013
above route shown on map traveled by train
Thursday 26th Sept 13 (day 26)
Waking up in a soft bed we were grateful we did not tent last night as it rained. We had a task to get all our stuff back in bike panniers and bags to carry on the bike.
I walked down the shop to get baguette and cheese for breakfast which we ate before loading Sofia and Fonsi up, paid the bill and again thanked the owner for letting us leave our bikes and bags with them for a week. They did not charge for this which was a bonus.
We only have 6.5 km to ride to Sarlat train station but after sitting in a canoe for a week our hearts soon knew what it was like to work again, and the relaxed lazy legs were feeling it also. It's warm again today, but a little cloudy - nice riding weather. The distance took us less than an hour. We stopped at supermarket for lunch supplies which we ate at the train station. Had some time to kill there at the train does not leave for Bergerac until 15.09.
Waiting around the couple of hours for the train is actually more exhausting than doing something physical. We had lunch in the station room and then went and sat outside on the platform to wait for the train to open. Our actual train had already arrived but so was sitting there waiting for a few hours also.
Just 5 minutes before departure were we able to load our bikes and bags - this had to be done separately as the panniers need to be removed from the bikes so they can be hung - the bikes not the bags. We sat and enjoyed the hour and a bit train journey crossing over the rain bridge where our canoe trip ended just yesterday. Onward to Bergerac.
We are spending the next two nights back with Jean and Christine our couch surfing hosts from 2 weeks ago. We only just met Christine today as she was away last time. An easy ride from the station through town, across the river to the familiar street. Wow we are almost local, we know our way around here.
The day was still warm and we spent the next couple of hours sitting outside on the terrace enjoying the late afternoon sunshine. Jean even went for a swim in the pool but it was still too chilly for me. Christine cooked a lovely dinner of cep mushrooms (local delicacy that Jean's son Matthew had collected from the nearby woods) omelet, green salad and finished off with cheese. Oh so French - love it.
Tomorrow we need to do some washing, fix the bloody air bed (or buy a new one), do some minor repairs/adjustments to Sofia and Fonsi; all in preparation for our next cycling adventure.
Dry, warm bed for tonight again. Weather tomorrow is supposed to be fine, but there is rain forecast for the weekend, hope we travel far enough to miss it.
Friday 27th Sept 13 (day 27)
Another beautiful sunny day in Bergerac. We did absolutely bugger all today except sit out on the terrace and enjoy the sunshine. Tell a lie we (or at least the washing machine) did a load of washing which we hung on the fence to dry.
Just before lunch we had a visitor, young bloke Elliot who is wanting to move to Australia in November. His father is a Kiwi so he has a Kiwi passport but he just wanted to ask us a few questions. Think we talked Aussie up enough as he seemed super keen by the time he had left - good luck to him.
Our host Christine had been to the fish market this morning so we had yummy sardines cooked on the bbq for lunch.
Late afternoon Jean drove us to the supermarket and we bought quails to have for dinner again. Very nice. Jean's son Matthew and his girlfriend came round for dinner. Matthew had been out at crack of dawn collecting cep mushrooms again and these were a perfect complement to our roast quails as was the pan fried potatoes cooked in duck fat. OMG how good is the food - finished off with some amazing cheese - very enjoyable evening.
It seems all we did was eat today and I guess that pretty much sums it up. Perfect day all round really.
Oh Lyn did have another go at fixing the flat bed. We got some superglue from the supermarket and used that to attach the patch. This seems to have worked better but we will tell in the morning after we have left it overnight and give it a pump up. If not it will be in the bin and a quick trip to Decathlon will purchase another air bed.
Tomorrow we catch the train to the Atlantic Coast - unfortunately the weather forecast is for rain , but who knows we may have some luck up our sleeves.
We have had a great time in France so far, which is thanks to our lovely hosts who opened their home and lives to us. This is the real way to experience a country - with it's people.
Saturday 28th Sept 13 (day 28)
Woke up to a cloudy overcast day, not a good sign but it may get better.
We spent the morning reloading our pannier bags and before we knew it, it was time to say goodbye to Christine and Jean and ride Sofia and Fonsi to the train station. It had rained a little in the morning but not enough for us to put on rain poncho and we still were wearing t-shirt and shorts.
20 minutes later we were at the Bergerac train station and I was waiting in line to purchase tickets to Arcachon - a town on the Atlantic Coast and our destination for the next few days. There was a line up and it took almost 25 minutes to get a ticket. The lady behind the counter was helpful and I had no problem purchasing tickets this time. Only a short wait and then the train arrived. Many people were getting in at Bergerac to we had to be quick to get the bikes and bags on after they had all got on and moved out of the way.
Bike hung and bags stored, we took a seat and watched the scenic landscape pass by out the window. The trip from Bergerac to Bordeaux took just over one & a half hours and most of the scenery we saw out the window were grape vines for as far as the eye could see. Not surprising since this is one of Frances major wine producing areas. As we headed closer to the west coast the sky looked a little like it was clearing. A one hour wait and a change of trains in Bordeaux and the weather there was clear and hot.
The train ride from Bordeaux to Arcachon took only 50 minutes and the weather changed dramatically during this time. Suddenly the train windows were being pelted with heavy rainfall and we could see lightening strikes and hear thunder. Oh shit, not a good sign as we had planned on camping tonight. However, by the time we arrived at our station and had to disembark the train, we had passed the bad weather and it was dry. Still cloudy overhead, but did not look like we would encounter a fierce storm. :-)
The tourist office was just down the street where I received a map that showed us the way to the campground. Looked like the weather was going to co-operate so we decided it would still be ok to camp. On this occasion the campground was not close to the waters edge as you would imagine but up on a hill in a forest area. Nice setting but the uphill was murder pushing the bikes. Reaching the reception we were panting and the lady behind the counter recognised the out of breathiness we were experiencing. You are on a bike - she smiled.
We were given a camp site and chose the one next to it instead - looked flatter. Set up the tent, drank a bottle of white wine that we had with us and was still cool enough to drink. Had to have it now as it was not going to get any cooler, the wine that it. That done, and as it was only around 5ish we decided to head back into town to have a look around - this time taking the short cut track. On the way down we accidentally came across an old belvedere (a lookout tower for those not in the know). 75 steps up a spiral staircase to the top which was 25 meters high. We had a quick look up there but could not linger as the old structure could only take 8 people at a time.
Arcachon is obviously a touristy town, which sits on the shores of the Arcachon Basin. Lots of big grand old houses in the streets off the shore front which is now lined with ugly modern looking hotels. It really has a holiday destination atmosphere. There were still a few people around but I imagine in summer this place would be packed. The beach looked nice - sandy and very big and clean. Yep, bet it buzzes here in summer.
We walked along the boulevard until light rain had us running for cover under a tree. Didn't last long and then we stumbled across a supermarket just before its 7.30 closing time. We bought some fresh supplies for dinner - spag bol tonight, made with some very odd mince we bought at the market, and started the walk back up to the campground.
Rain did not interrupt the el fresco cooking of dinner (which somehow Lyn conned me into doing) and it was still dry even after we had showered and retired to the tent. Yippee a good sign. Also the temp seems to be a bit warmer here.
Posted by Cindy Bruin 02:02 Archived in France Tagged bergerac arcachon Comments (4)