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2019 July 06 to 09, Germany - Mosel River

We start riding the every winding Mosel


View 2019 Adventure - Germany, Malta, Italy & Indonesia on Cindy Bruin's travel map.

SATURDAY 6TH JULY 2019 (DAY 15)

BIKE DAY 5 (SAARBURG TO TRIER)

Another cold night in the tent. We woke up to dew on the ground this morning, this is the first time we have had dew on the tent and on our washing that we left out overnight. It was not a heavy dew and as soon as the sun hit the tent it was dry, not so lucky for our clothes as they had sucked up a bit of the moisture. Never mind, we will just ride with our clothing strapped on the back of the bike, and they can dry that way.
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More blue sky and sunny weather, we rode out of the campground at 10.11am, heading first to the supermarket to take back our beer cans from yesterday (all cans and bottles in Germany are charged with a deposit and need to be returned to get your deposit back – sort of a forced recycling that works perfectly) and get some lunch supplies for on the road.

It was an easy ride today and we made it to the end of the Saar River where it flows into the Mosel River. Here we stopped to have a celebration cake that I had purchased this morning. Any reason to have a cake is a good one.
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So, we are now riding along the Mosel River and our first stop is the town of Trier. Trier is supposedly the oldest town in Germany. We found the campground, same one I have stayed in previously, set the tent up, had lunch then rode into town to have a wander around. Town was crawling with lots and lots of tourists. It was late in the afternoon and still all the shops in the centre were open, taking full advantage of the crowds. We walked around for a while then stopped to have a beer and people watch. This is the most tourists we have seen anywhere.
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On the way back to the campground we stopped at the supermarket for some dinner supplies and a few beers which we drank back beside the tent. The campground is right on the rivers edge with just the bike track, a very busy bike track, and a fence separating them. Sitting here drinking our beers watching the foot and bike traffic go past it’s a bit like we are exhibits in a zoo. Everyone looks at us, some smile, some say hello, others zoom past ignoring us. It’s funny.

We do the usual, shower then climb into the tent for bed, hoping for a warmer night’s sleep and no rain.

DISTANCE RODE TODAY 23.67km
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TREVIRIS CAMPING TRIER 19.50 EUROS – toilets with paper, hot shower @ 1euro for 5mins, grassy pitch

SUNDAY 7TH JULY 2019 (DAY 16)

OFF BIKE DAY 6 (TRAIN TRIER TO LUXEMBOURG RETURN)

Last night did not seem to be as cold as previous nights have been. I, at least, felt as if I slept a little better than previous nights. Getting out of the tent the weather did not look very nice for our day today. Lots of clouds and no blue sky to be seen. By the time we were eating breakfast we had to don our rain ponchos as a light rain started to fall. It as not falling very hard, but enough that we would get wet without the covering.

Most of the other cycle campers were in different stages of packing up, but we are having an off-bike day today, so we were in no hurry to do anything. Today we are catching the train to the neighbouring country of Luxembourg, so there will be no riding in the rain for us, no matter how light it is.

Yesterday we had called into the train station and picked up a train timetable and know that trains are hourly at 37 minutes past the hour so we can catch whichever we like. After we ate breakfast, we stowed everything inside the tent, handed my laptop into reception for safe keeping and asked them to charge it for me (which they did) and we rode the couple of km’s into Trier town to the train station. Being a Sunday there was not very much traffic on the roads. Out front of the station we locked our bikes to each other and to a couple of poles and hoped that they would still be there when we returned this afternoon. Our bikes are still all dusty and dirty (now after a sprinkle of rain, muddy) so they surely would not be the first choice for bike thieves, well that’s what we were counting on anyway.

We purchased tickets from the auto ticket machine and were pleasantly surprised when we discovered the cost was only 9.60euros each return. Good value for a train ticket to another country I reckon.

We had only about 15 minutes to wait for our train and to be sure asked that it was the correct one as there were 2 trains at the same platform leaving within minutes of each other. The train ride was about an hour and when we left Trier the train retraced the path along the Mosel River that we had cycled yesterday, up to the Saar River. Then the train headed away from the rivers toward Luxembourg’s capital Luxembourg. We rode past farmland, pastures and forest - all very green.

Unfortunately for us, the weather did not look any better when we arrived in Luxembourg. We walked out of the train station and not far up the road towards the centre and we stopped to put our rain ponchos back on. Hey, we may not have looked fabulous, but we were the only tourists walking around and keeping dry. The rain was not very heavy, just a light shower really, but again enough to get you wet if walking around in it. Some people looked at us weirdly in our bright ponchos, but even more looked at us with envy as they started to get very soggy.

We walked around the pedestrian streets, being a Sunday, all the stops were closed but there were still a fair number of tourists walking around. We found a trash and treasure market in an open square, but most of the goods for sale were covered with plastic to attempt to keep their wares dry. There was nothing we saw that we could not live without so did not make any purchases. Lyn did eye off an old wooden spinning wheel that was just 7 euros, but how the hell do you carry a spinning wheel on a bike? We started to look for somewhere to have lunch and I said it would be nice to have some soup and bread. There were of course lots of restaurants and cafes open, all serving overpriced food to the soggy tourists who entered these places mainly to get out of the rain. I spotted a kebab shop that looked like they were serving Turkish kebab which we headed towards hoping they might serve soup. Yes, lentil soup and warm pita bread for just 4 euro each! What a bargain and it tasted delicious, just what we wanted.

After lunch, the rain had eased a bit, so we returned to the lookout to go up in the City Sky Liner. This was like a ride at an amusement park but travelled very slowly and gave a great view out over the city at 70 meters up in the air. Looked like a spaceship and was not a bad price @ 7 euros each for a 20-minute ride. After our birds eye view over the city, we caught the lift down into the oldtown and there seemed like a climate change down there as the sun was shining and we walked around after having stripped off our long sleeves and leg warmers. We walked back up the hill to the corniche and walked around some more.
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At around 5.30ish, we started to head back in the direction of the train station. Arriving there at around 6 and saw that our next train was at 6.33 so we had enough time for a coffee before heading to the platform. Be buggered if these Europeans can make a hot cup of coffee. It cost us 6.80 euros for 2 (half cups – they don’t know how to fill cups to the top either) and 2 tiny scroll buns – which really is on par with what we would pay in Australia – so not too bad.

The 6.33pm train arrived back in Trier at about 7.30pm and we were very happy to see both our bikes still chained up to the post where we had left them. Always a worry when we must leave them somewhere for a few hours.

We rode back to the campsite and noticed the road was dry here in Trier so if it had rained here today, it was a lot earlier and everything was now dry again. The sky was still very cloudy, but hopefully that will make for not such a cold night again.

Back at camp we relaxed and drank the 2 cans of radler beer we left in the camp fridge, also hoping they would be there on our return. And they were, so thank you fellow campers for not pinching them. We cooked dinner; a can surprise purchased from the supermarket yesterday as we thought nothing would be open on Sunday. And again, we were correct.
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Showers, and again here I am in the tent typing this as Lyn snores beside me. It’s just turned 10pm and the towns church bells are ringing. It’s just starting to get dark outside, not much light coming through the tent nylon.

Tomorrow we continue riding up the Mosel River.

TREVIRIS CAMPING TRIER 19.50 EUROS – toilets with paper, hot shower @ 1euro for 5mins, grassy pitch

MONDAY 8TH JULY 2019 (DAY 17)

BIKE DAY 7 (TRIER TO RIOL)

The sun was shining when we woke this morning, so that was a good sign. We had no supplies for breakfast and the reception did not have any spare rolls, so we just had a coffee/ tea and packed up the tent and our gear and rode up the road to the supermarket. We paid the bill on the way out, 21.50euro per night, pretty good.

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We ate a quick roll and cheese in the supermarket carpark and were soon on our way. Not too far to cycle today, only about 20km to the village of Riol where we have booked a wine barrel to sleep in. And at the campsite there is a luge too, that is the main reason for this overnight choice. We were on the bike track by 11am. The path today was easy again, after leaving Trier it took us inland a bit and we rode through a bit of industrial areas. Soon we were back by the River Mosel with steep vineyards covering the valley hills.

As we don’t have that far to go so, we took it very easy, stopping for photos and water breaks. I was not sure if there was a supermarket near our campground so we stopped at a supermarket to buy some lunch supplies and a can of something for dinner. Just as well we did as the campground is near a small village that does not even have a shop and the only food available at the camp is an onsite Italian Restaurant.
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Our lunch stop by the side of the Mosel River was very picturesque. After we’d eaten the camp was only a couple of km further, so we were there by 2pm. No problem, the weather is funny today, although the sun is out there are lots of clouds and the wind is quite fresh when we were riding in the shade of the trees. Last night was chilly in the tent again so I think both Lyn and I are looking forward to spending the night inside a warm wooden wine barrel. We checked into TrioLago Campground and were given a key for our barrel which we rode up to.
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Always the first thing to do is washing, we did not wash yesterday’s clothes last night as we knew this was going to be an early stop. So, washing done, and hung out to dry we went for a bit of a ride into the village hoping to find a small shop to buy some liquid refreshments. We didn’t know there would be a share fridge at this camp and had no supplies with us. Sadly, no shop and we did not feel like riding back to the supermarket.
Instead we rode back and had a ride on the luge. This is one that was missed 5 years ago when I rode past with Sarah and the Lemons as it was closed. But today it was open and for 4 euros each we enjoyed Rodelbahn #2 for this trip. And decided to celebrate with a beer at the Italian Restaurant! What the hell.
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The rest of the afternoon we relaxed, the sky is still full of clouds with splashes of blue and every now and then the sun shines through and its quite warm. However, out of the sun its chilly, such an odd weather day today. I’m hoping to see that clear blue sky and warmer weather again tomorrow when we ride again.

Dinner from a can is warm and hearty which we cook outside the barrel, fighting with the strong breeze that wants to blow out our gas cooker.

DISTANCE RODE TODAY 22.40KM PLUS EXTRA 6KM AROUND RIOL VILLAGE AND TO THE SHOWERS AND BACK
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TRIOLAGO CAMPING 32 EURO – WINE BARREL – TOILETS 50M (with paper) SHOWERS 700M AWAY – HOT

TUESDAY 9TH JULY 2019 (DAY 18)

BIKE DAY 8 (RIOL TO BERNKASTEL-KUES)

Ok, so we can now say we have slept in a wine barrel, although I don’t think it was an actual real wine barrel that was used for storage of wine, but it was the same shame as a wine barrel so close enough. Unfortunately, the 3cm thickness of the mattress made our huge airbeds seem very luxurious. I guess it was a bit warmer inside the wood than it would have been in our thin nylon tent so that was a bonus.

We had breakfast from supplies and loaded the bikes and were back in the saddle on the Mosel Radweg (bike way) by 9.30am.

It was cold today. Cold when we started riding and we kept sleeves on most of the day. Original plan was to ride only about 20km to our nights stop, but when we had reached our destination by 11am we decided to carry on riding a little further. Not sure if we were riding faster today to try and keep warm or what but we ended up doing almost 40km and made it to tomorrow nights stop at about 2pm.

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Pretty good going considering we battled with a head wind all day as well as the cold.
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We rode into the pretty little town of Bernkastel-Kues. Very touristy here, with a castle high up on top of the hill above the grape vines. There are lots of boats that leave from here that can ferry you on to the next town and beyond, or boats offering 1-hour round trips a short distance on the Mosel. Also, a night stopover for river boat cruises, which are very popular with Australian tourists as we heard lots of Aussie accents from many septuagenarians walking around.

About 1 or 2 km out before we reached the town, we spied a camping ground on the other side of the river. I was kinda hoping that was not the one we wanted as it would mean we have to ride into town, cross the bridge to the other side and ride the 2km back to the campground. Our first stop was at the tourist information office, where I wanted to confirm the closest campground was the one, we saw. Of course, it was then only campground for this town. Erk. Out of curiosity I asked the nice lady at the tourist info about a price of a room for the night. Actually, she was not a very nice lady at all, as when she quoted me 120 euros for a hotel in the old town, she turned up her nose when I asked if there was anywhere a bit cheaper. Ump, a guesthouse for 68 euros with shower and breakfast she spat at me. I went back outside to confer with Lyn, and she agreed we could afford the splurge and take the room instead of riding back to the campground.

Suddenly the sun came out and the rest of the afternoon was lovely, sunny and warm. Our small room with 2 single beds and bathroom had a great balcony (that was bigger than the room) which overlooked the river. We relaxed after our long ride, then went out later in the afternoon to have a walk around town.
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Lots of very old buildings here, the very typical German half wooden houses. Very pretty place. We went over the bridge to the other side of the river to find a supermarket. Bought some beers, and a very nice bottle of local Mosel wine for just 5 euros. We enjoyed the wine with dinner (surprise can) which we very naughtily heated up in our bathroom. After splurging for the room, we couldn’t completely blow the budget by eating out.

Tonight, we sleep in a soft bed in a warm room – well worth the money. I have managed to load photos from the last few days also.

DISTANCE RODE TODAY 40KM
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BON GARDEN GUESTHOUSE 68 EURO, soft beds, hot shower, breakfast included.

Posted by Cindy Bruin 04:33 Archived in Germany

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Comments

Hey girls, you both look so happy and reading your blog it sounds like you both are having the best time !!!! I'm sure given the opportunity Nicky would have found a way to attatch that spinning wheel to her bike. Talk to you again soon. xx

by Oskar

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